36 Pack 3M 2020-24A 1" x 60-yd Scotch General Purpose and Production Painting Masking Tape

!±8±36 Pack 3M 2020-24A 1" x 60-yd Scotch General Purpose and Production Painting Masking Tape

Brand : Scotch
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Dec 20, 2011 07:32:28
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

3M General Purpose Masking Tape 2020 has good adhesion, holding power, and provides good paint lines. Use for general purpose masking projects where surfaces are not easily damaged. This is a high adhesion tape good for production masking applications such as taping paper or hanging poly.

Deals For Iphone Usb Adapter

36 Pack 3M 2090-1A 1" x 60-yd Scotch-Blue Safe-Release Painters Tape for Multi-Surfaces

!±8± 36 Pack 3M 2090-1A 1" x 60-yd Scotch-Blue Safe-Release Painters Tape for Multi-Surfaces

Rate : | Price : | Post Date : Dec 16, 2011 17:15:18
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

This tape removes cleanly without adhesive transfer or surface damage for up to 14 days - even when exposed to direct sunlight. It is a medium adhesion tape that is ideal for painted walls and trim, woodwork, glass and metal. Flexible crepe backing allows for exceptional conformability to semi-smooth surfaces.

New Toro Electric Shovel Non Skid Shoes Quickly

China Repair: The Museum Quality Method

!±8± China Repair: The Museum Quality Method

The two most common china repair techniques are "museum quality repair" and "invisible repair". Although they're often cited by professional restorers in one breath, the two techniques are different.

Museum quality repair centers on gluing and bonding the item, sculpting the necessary missing pieces, and filling in the cracks. But it doesn't mask the hairline cracks or the restoration method. When a professional ceramic or porcelain restorer performs an invisible restoration, in addition to the above steps, he or she matches and replicates the color and pattern/design of the item, airbrushes and glazes the surface. When the process is done correctly, the restoration is not even visible under an ultraviolet light used at auction houses.

Below are the steps involved in museum restoration and the process' aesthetic considerations. Note that only the cold method (no firing) is appropriate for museum and invisible restorations, and at no point should the item that's being restored be subjected to any form of heating.

Proper Working Conditions:

It's preferable that the restoration is undertaken in daylight. Discolorations on the surface of a damaged item is not often visible in artificial light. A good dental drill with various drill bit sizes (preferably diamond-tipped), and a spacious container for uncooked rice in order to steady the item being restored without using unnecessary clamps that may damage the surface.

The Process:

Identify the cracks. Are they complete or partial? You can use an ultraviolet lamp to determine whether they are partial or complete. Usually, if a section of the damaged item looks darker (yellowish, if the surface color is white or off-white), that section has been over-painted to mask the bad repair. Black spots in the glaze is another dead giveaway.

Often, cotton swabs dipped in a commercial solvent, such as can be used to remove the access paint or discoloration; sometimes, however, it may be easier to immerse the entire item in a basin filled with methylene chloride rather than use swabs.

Another important aspect of the process is the removal of metal staples, which restores prior to the middle of the 20th Century commonly used. Although some collectors prefer to leave the staples in, as a relic from a previous era, modern museums prefer that the staples be removed because they are unsightly.

The staples can easily be removed with pliers after the area has been cleaned with warm water. Sometimes the riveted area needs to be carefully sewn in order to extract the staples. Green stains can be removed with warm water mixed with 30% ammonia.

The choice of the glue or adhesive to be used depends largely on the nature and texture of china or ceramic. While a cold-curing epoxy resin can be used on harder-bodied ceramic such as porcelain and china, 5 Minute Epoxy should be used on earthenware and stoneware.

Before proceeding with gluing and bonding, it is important to note that all the pieces should be clean and dry. If there are many pieces, they should be assembled and held in place with Scotch tape.

After bonding, all missing areas have be to filled. A white, soft but durable filling is used for china or porcelain, and ceramic.

Next step is retouching. Be sure that the surface is as clear and flat as it can be, otherwise even a slight discrepancy will spoil the process. It helps if one is a painter or graphic designer, for finding the correct color to match the surface of the item is one of the most important elements of professional restoration.

The degree is of shine is very important. You are not making the item look new, but "original", or they way it looked before it got broken or damaged. Although a regular paint brush will work, it is strongly recommended to use an airbrush or any spray brush that has a steady and even flow. Retouching requires expertise, so doing it one layer at a time would be the best solution for a beginning restorer.

Display:

No professionally restored object can be used for practical purposes - display only.

A restored object should never be displayed outside or in hot/humid indoor environment.

Avoid mounting the restored objects on wood panels or marble surfaces as damage could be done to the restoration.

China Repair: The Museum Quality Method

Clearblue Easy Fertility Test Sticks Reviews

Epic fail:man against tape

!±8± Epic fail:man against tape

Man aka Bryan runs and gets clotheslined by tape aka scotch

Epic fail:man against tape

Buyers Hamilton Beach Water Dispensers Toro Sprinkler Timers For Sale Cheap Keurig Distributors

How to Prep Your Engine Compartment for Paint

!±8± How to Prep Your Engine Compartment for Paint

I thought I'd talk a bit about 'the restoration of the engine compartment, as it is one of the problems is a lot of car restoration projects, the first thing you notice as a rule, is the engine room so full of fat and, of course, an engine so the first thing you do, pull out the engine of the car, it is much easier to pull the gear with the engine, and pull as a unit.

You'll notice if you do, that there is athen thought very oily, but now you can at least be sufficient to clean it before I would a steam cleaner to get it, and to see how fat and out a lot of years of dirt road, he wants this, and I do not think that this fast if see that the steam cleaner is not always the dirt from the engine room, go ahead and put a little 'grease on the areas that do not meet expectations, and enter the degreaser for about 30 minutes to loosen dirt.

Afterwhich, you guessed it, he returned to the steam cleaning, which are not received one, scraping, so be prepared, dirt, now gives more dirt and grime of the road that the steam cleaner will not be removed unless the person's car properties, was first varied in love with his car clean, and regularly the engine room, this will without doubt a big difference, you have to do to have it cleaned as soon as you go through scarping all the dirt away, can you stopsSteam cleaner again, and one last shot.

Then you need to take some acetone or something and your final tuning of the engine compartment is known, is clean, if you do not see no more black stuff as soon as it is now time to determine, which are mounted in engine compartment before they can begin preparing for the paint, to search for rust or dents that need to be resolved, you will know from rust, rust appearswill show as bubbles in the paint, holes in the paint, or just big, ugly holes, now if you have some bubbles in the paint you see in the engine compartment, just scrape the top of them, and then see how bad the rust is "light" by touching the rusted with a hammer when the hammer to choose a hole in you engine bay, you know that the rust was at an advanced stage, and must be resolved before going any further on the project.

To fix that hole rust, orForum of rust, you must determine how big the area is done, and I suggest you draw a line around the area, after that you must be sure to have a die grinder with a blade width of cut is installed, what to do now insert die grinder air supply, and then follow the line drawn around the area rusted, and cut a favor and make it a little at a time, one step over the line you drew, just to get a guide for the instrumentgrinder, all you'll be doing here is passing your die grinder over the guide lines that you created until the rusted area is cut out of the engine compartment, now you should de-bur the area that you cut out.

After you get the area all cleaned up, take some two inch masking tape and put it across the hole, and then take a sharpie and follow the outline of the hole, pull it off of the hole and put it on the piece of sheet metal that your going to use to fix the hole in your engine compartment, take your die grinder and work around the line until you've cut out a piece of metal in the shape of the rust hole in your engine compartment, by now you can see where I'm going with this whole idea, OK now take that piece of metal and fit it in the hole in your engine compartment, now that you've got it all fit in place, it's time to find a way to make it stay there while you weld it in, I usually use Visegrips to do this, but how you hold it in place is all up to you, you will want to make sure that it sits in place as level as possible, it will be a lot less work to finish the job if you do this, when you begin to weld the plate in place, your not going to run a solid bead around it all at one time, it will be a solid bead in the end, but work from one side to the other, and do about a one inch weld at a time, otherwise you'll warp the metal, and cause a lot more work for yourself , so when you start, you'll have a one inch inch bead on all four sides holding the metal in place.

Once you have made a solid weld bead around the entire patch panel, you can once again get your die grinder out, and this time put a grinding blade on it, and grind the wed bead flat, once the is done, take a dual action sander, or "DA" and put some 180 grit sand paper on it, and smooth out the rough areas in the paint, that the die grinder made, and the rough up the bare area again with some 80 grit paper, after that is done get out your mixing board, and metal glaze and mix up some metal glaze and spread it over the patched area, and then sand it with 80 grit paper on a hand block, and if needed, repeat this process again until the area is smooth and just a little high, and then load that block with 180 grit paper and level out the high spot.

Now you'll need to primer the area that you just repaired, I would use a urethane primer for this, the brand is up to you, depending on the brand, mixing instructions will change, so be sure to ask you paint supply house to explain to you how to mix the brand that you choose, the one thing that doesn't change in the flash time between coats, this should be about 15-20 minutes, and you should lay at least 3-4 medium wet coats of primer on the repaired area, after you get this done, you'll want to spray a guide coat on the primer, so when you begin to sand the primer, you can see that high or low spots in your repair work, and usually you'll have one, the other, or both, now that you have your guide coat on the primer, and the primer has had time to dry, I would give it no less then four hours to dry, but even better yet 12-24 hours of dry time. Now that it's dry, load that hand block with 180 grit paper and sand the guide coat off, you'll notice that their are high or low spots in your work, you'll need to determine if primer will fill it, or if you need more glaze to be applied to your work area.

For now let's say that your work was smooth and right the first time, so now your done fixing the rusted area, you'll need to get a a bucket and put some warm water in it, and this will be your wet sanding bucket, and a water spray bottle is nice to have also, now you'll need 600 grit wet sand paper to sand you engine compartment, this is of course if the rest of the engine compartment is free of dent, dings, and nicks in the paint, once you know that it is you can sand the entire engine compartment with wet 600 grit sand paper, and the areas that you can't reach wit that, you can use a gray scotch brite pad, once the entire engine compartment is dull, you can then use a prep cleaning solvent to clean it up, and make sure that you get all of the residue from wet sanding out of the engine compartment.

Your now ready to spay the paint, after you mask the rest of the car off, so you don't get paint where you don't want it.

Well cover that painting of the engine compartment in the next article.

How to Prep Your Engine Compartment for Paint

Shop For Lava Lamp Colombina Candy Sale Fender Musicmaster Sale

Painting Cloth Seats - Dyeing Fabric

!±8± Painting Cloth Seats - Dyeing Fabric

I have a lot of this is running on my trips, a customer asks: "Can you dye the cloth seats?" My answer is: "No, I can dye the seats do what I can do is to paint your seats .."

Fabric dyeing and painting are two very different things.

Dyeing fabric consists of dipping the fabric in a solution of dye, soaked through and through for a period of time, then rinse excess dye. Wash away excess dye left so as not to transfer to something thatdoes not stain your clothes like. Dyeing of textiles is a way to change a long-lasting color. The dyes actually penetrate the fibers of the fabric.

Canvas painting consists of spraying a solution of color pigments and a binder of some sort on the cloth. This process is normally used to rejuvenate an existing color or easy to change a color. When you try to change a color, usually go darker not lighter. If you want a dark gray and light gray to go, will not work. Paintingcloth can be tricky, but can yield some really nice jobs. Painting cloth can be a semi-permanent way to change the color of fabric. Usually the paint will eventually wear off on high traffic areas. The paint lays on top of the fibers. Designs can also be done by the paint method, usually with an airbrush.

So with that said painting cloth seats can be done. Dyeing a cloth seats, well.... if your willing to tear your seats apart and hope the fabric doesn't shrink while washing it in the dye solution, which most fabric dyes require hot water, then dyeing a cloth seat can be done too, but with a lot of work. I guess it could save a little on reupholstering, but with all that effort you might as well go ahead and go all the way and just add new fabric the color you want. But to each his own, I guess if you have a new car and want it different color then maybe, that's new fabric.

I got into a job today that you almost had to laugh at. This was a lot of time and effort put into a vehicle that if finished probably could have been a show car if...and I mean if....it were a different car. It was a 2006 Suzuki Forenza, that someone had put custom crushed velvet silver with emerald green inserts. Tucked, quilted, molded and sewn just right. The job was done really well, just didn't really match anything. The car was white with a two tone gray interior. They had done all four seats, headliner, door panels and trunk area only.Kinda looked like someone just wasn't quite done. I don't know it didn't match and needed to get sold.

So my job was to turn the green to black.

Doing this took some prep time, I thought of just going in with a blocking card and paint and going to town but then I thought again, too many curves and just too much area. Masking was my only way. Now masking cloth can be a pain, usually tape just really doesn't stick that well and I was a little worried, but this material held tape very well, thank God. Not really sure what it was, surely some sort of synthetic. If ever you run into a problem with your tape not sticking to cloth, I've found if you heat the tape a little with a hair dryer while applying it, it will stick better. The tape from 3M and from Scotch Tape, work the best I think. Anyways I taped off the entire areas using a 1.5" tape. This took about an hour, paying close attention not to tape over the green or exposing any of the silver. I used my blocking card for the rest. Papering it off too is just a waste to me, I can use a blocking card most of the time and tape and get the same effect. Less material cost....

Now mixing up your paint solution. I used my water based vinyl paints to do this. Vinyl paints are dye pigments mixed with resins, or your binder. Water based works best for cloth, solvents seem to leave the cloth stiff and hard looking where water based paints are more flexible leaving the cloth feeling and looking more natural. And I see your questions flying, "Water Based?" "Will it wash off on my clothes?" Water based means the pigments and resins are water soluble, basically meaning when the water evaporates the paint is permanent. It won't come off on your clothing once done, if done correctly.

I mixed my paint with about 2 oz. paint to 1 oz. water, with a dab of slip additive for a softer feel, and rubbing alcohol to help evaporate the water faster boosting dry time. I watered it down to help it absorb into the fabric better. Doing it this way helps to give you that softer feel in the end, more time, but worth the effort.

I laid around two coats on each panel before moving onto the next, then went back after wards and laid another coat to deepen the black. The darker designs on the fabric showed through giving it a pretty cool effect. It worked out really well.

I did this job today and will probably have to go back tomorrow to touch it up and brush the fabric, this will remove any excess left over and give the cloth a softer feel. Touching it up will consist of either having to dye the seats again or just laying a light coat over them. Sometimes the dye will soak into the fabric and lighten as it dries basically the other color will bleed back through. You really can't tell if your really done until they are completely dry. So there's where the time thing come in.

Painting your cloth seats can give you a revive to your ride or give you a new look all together. Just remember when doing so to use a water based paint to give you the feel and look your looking for.

Painting Cloth Seats - Dyeing Fabric

!8!# Shopping Keyboard Weighted